The trap uses two PVC tubes. The inner tube is an 11 inch long section of half inch schedule 40 PVC pipe. It has four 3/32" slot evenly distributed around the lower end. These slots are angled so that they move the water in a counter clockwise direction. The outer tube is 12 inches of one inch schedule 40 PVC pipe. The slots in the outer tube are the same as the inner slots except that they are at the top. You must cut them so that they also spin the water counterclockwise.

All of the slots on both tubes are tangental to the inside circumference of the pipe and they are about 2 3/8" long on the outside tapering down to 1 1/2" on the inside.
 
 

The slots were cut with a 5 1/2" inch diameter thin kerf saw blade which was raised into the tube. You cannot lower the tube into the blade as this will cause the tube to kick back at you. It is best if the tube is clamped to the fence of the table saw and the blade is raised into it.

All of the slots start about 3/4" from the end of the pipes.

The two tubes are assembled one inside the other using a couple of 3/4" male slip to 1/2 inch female thread bushings. The end away from the thread must be reamed out so that the inner 1/2 inch pipe will fit inside. This bushing will not fit inside every brand of one inch PVC pipe so you may have to check around to find one which fits.

Before these are assembled and solvent welded together a piece of oil absorbent fabric must be rolled tightly and inserted into the inner pipe so that it extends from the top of the inner pipe almost down to the slots at the bottom. This fabric should be a nice tight fit as it must resist the full pressure of the water pushing against it.

The inlet water is directed into the four upper slots on the outer tube by a one inch compression tee. This part might be a little difficult to find as it is not generally carried by consumer hardware stores. You are more likely to find it at a plumbing specialty shop.

The rest of the trap illustrated in the pictures is just there to get the water to and from the trap portion. I made my trap with more valves and unions than necessary in order to have something that I could easily modify while it was connected to my home water system.

The metal tank in the picture is a small pressure tank which also provides a magnetically shielded space for the ORMUS water that has been captured by the trap. This pressure tank holds about a gallon of liquid and provides full pressure till it is empty.

Eventually I want to have all my domestic water run through this trap and have a spigot mounted on my sink for the ORMUS trap water.

I used four ceramic ring magnets on my trap. These magnets are four and a half inches in diameter with a 1.75 inch inner hole. They are about half an inch thick. These magnets are oriented so that their upper face attracts the south end of a compass needle.

This should be enough to get folks started with this trap design.

Following is some information about the water from this trap:

The static pressure at my tap is about 90 psi. I cannot measure active pressure into the trap without making extensive modifications to it but the active pressure going into my three stage Tiny Trap is about 40-50 psi.

Between 10:20 AM and 11:20 AM on 5-15-01 I measured the volume of water use and the volume of trapped water. I got 3.21 liters of water from the trap after running it for one hour. This matches the amount I got in the same length of time a few days ago. My water meter indicated that I used 75.95 cubic feet (2038.24 liters) of water in this same hour. I did not use any other water in my house. This figures out to a ratio of approximately 635 units of total source water to 1 unit of trap water.

I also calibrated my pH meter and measured the pH of the different water components. These measurements were:
 

I have also taken some pictures of the trap water: