ORMUS
CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
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This document may not be reproduced except in its entirety, and without
changes. Before trying any of the procedures described in this document,
we advise you to thoroughly read this document several times.
This document was created by a group of people who believe that this
information is of inestimable value to humanity and should be made widely
available as soon as possible. The information here is declared to be in
the public domain and we wish that it not become the sole property of any
individual or group.
Here we describe some simple ways of making ORMUS so that readers can
begin true scientific and intuitive experiments with these materials.
All of these methods are experimental. The following information
is presented to promote scientific research into the nature of these materials.
Although these methods are based on our best knowledge at this time, further
scientific research may prove some of these processes or theories to be
inaccurate.
DISCLAIMER
The processes described here have not all been tested extensively. We do
not guarantee the procedures in this document, nor the results obtained
by using them. To the extent that you use or implement these procedures
or the products thereof, you do so at your own risk. In no event will the
authors of this document be liable to you, anyone else, or any organization
or government, for any damages arising from your use, or your inability
to use these procedures or the product thereof. Apply these procedures
at your own risk.
VERIFICATION
The material made by some of these methods has been tested by an independent
lab using X-ray fluorescence and photo spectrometry to identify the emission
spectra of m-state materials. (The lab prefers to remain anonymous).
The m-state spectral emissions signature was a broad, flat band rather
than discrete lines. The test also showed a significant amount of
calcium and magnesium, but no toxins were evident in well-washed material
made from unpolluted ocean water.
To further prove that these materials are a different state of the precious
elements mentioned above, it is possible to electroplate these elements
out as precious metals.
People familiar with Hudson's process claim that the materials produced
using these methods are similar to Hudson's ORME materials.
INGESTION
We do not recommend the ingestion of these materials since so little is
known about them. This information is being provided so that scientific
inquiry can commence into the nature of these materials. We realize that,
despite recommendations to the contrary, some people will ingest these
materials. With this in mind we offer the following information to minimize
any possible adverse effects from ingesting these materials. Please read
the WARNING and CAUTION
sections.
Some people have ingested the m-state materials made by these methods.
They suggest that benefits are most likely when dosage is kept small.
Three methods of making ORMUS are described in this document: the WET
method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. For the materials
extracted by the wet and dry procedures, one teaspoon of material, morning
and evening, has been found by them to be not harmful over several weeks'
time. A much smaller dose, on the order of a few drops a day, would be
more appropriate for the material produced by the boiling gold method.
We believe that the m-state may be homeopathic, so a much smaller dose
may be the safest -- such as 1/64 teaspoon diluted in one quart of pure
water, taken two or three ounces once or twice a day.
David Hudson gave some information on dosage in his Dallas speech at:
http://monatomic.earth.com/david-hudson/1995-02-dallas-toc.html
WHITEGOLD WEB PAGE
You can find a discussion forum on the WhiteGold Web page. There you can
post comments and questions on these procedures, and on ORMUS in general.
WhiteGold Web page: http://www.zz.com/WhiteGoldWeb/
INDEX
-
Overview
-
Necessary Supplies
-
pH Paper or pH Meter
-
Safety
-
Wet Method
-
Starting Materials
-
Problems Encountered
-
Avoiding Problems
More in another document...
OVERVIEW
This document describes three methods of producing ORMUS: the WET method,
the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method.
All three methods use a chemical lab technique called "measuring pH."
The pH of a solution is a measure of its acid/base ratio. You may remember
testing pH with litmus paper in high school. pH values less than pH 7 indicate
an acid, like distilled white vinegar. pH 7 is neutral, like pure
water. Greater than pH 7 is alkaline, like lye.
ORMUS precipitates between pH 8.5 and 10.78.
The WET method produces the least "effective" material but is relatively
simple to perform.
Here is the basic WET method in brief.
It will be discussed later in detail:
1. Start with drinkable water or clean sea water.
2. Slowly add a solution of lye mixed with water to raise the pH above
8.5 but no higher than 10.78.
3. A white fluffy precipitate will form which you should allow to settle
overnight.
4. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
5. Thoroughly wash the precipitate. It is calcium hydroxide,
magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.
Here is the DRY method in brief:
1. Start with dry mineral powder.
2. Boil it in lye water at pH 12.
3. Filter and discard the precipitate.
4. Add distilled white vinegar or hydrochloric acid (HCl) to the filtered
liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
5. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
7. Wash the precipitate. That is calcium hydroxide, magnesium
hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.
And here is the BOILING GOLD method
in brief [the BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked
for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use]:
1. Boil gold dust in a lye solution.
2. Filter out any solids.
3. Add distilled white vinegar or HCl to the remaining liquid to lower
the pH to 8.5.
4. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
5. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
6. Wash the precipitate. It is almost pure gold m-state material.
NECESSARY SUPPLIES TO MAKE M-STATE
A glass or stainless steel pot. If you use stainless-steel pots, check
for steel particles in your precipitate. Although unlikely, this problem
may occur if you use large amounts of HCl to lower the pH. Never
use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids
like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.
Distilled water from a grocery store.
A stainless steel spatula or knife for stirring, from a grocery store.
Never use aluminum containers or utensils because
aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will
poison you.
A few glass jars. Tall skinny ones work best.
Lye (sodium hydroxide or NaOH). We will use the term "lye" in
this document rather than "sodium hydroxide" or "NaOH" since it is shorter
and more familiar to most people. Grocery store lye, such as Lewis
Red Devil Lye, is not as pure and uncontaminated as laboratory or food-grade
lye. We strongly recommend that laboratory or food grade sodium hydroxide
be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since grocery store lye
may contain dangerous contaminants. Note: Virtually no lye will be
present in the final product so it will be safe to ingest. In any
case, lye is not toxic, and it is not caustic when sufficiently diluted
(as in these methods).
HCl (hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid). We will use the term
"HCl" in this document rather than "hydrochloric acid" or "muriatic acid"
since it is shorter. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware
store, but laboratory, electronic or food-grade HCl is less likely to be
contaminated. We strongly recommend that laboratory, electronic or
food grade hydrocholoric acid be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion
since muriatic acid from a hardware store may contain dangerous contaminants.
The presence of iron as a contaminant in the acid may interfere with the
m-state materials in some applications.
Three eyedropper bottles from a pharmacy. An alternative to eyedroppers
is squirt bottles made of HDPE. Find them at a natural foods store
or other store which sells bulk liquid products like vegetable oils or
lotions.
A large 50 cc plastic syringe from a veterinary supply shop or a lab-supply
house. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB
SUPPLIES.
pH paper or a pH meter. You can get pH paper (pH 1 to 12) from
a lab-supply company or a mining supply store. Use new paper because
old paper becomes inaccurate. Some suppliers are listed near the
end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
pH PAPER OR pH METER?
Some experimenters say not to rely on a pH meter because its readings vary
with temperature and ionization. Also, a meter costs much more than
pH paper. Many pH meter probes can be damaged by very strong acids
or alkalis. But some say that a pH meter is essential, for these
reasons:
-
pH paper cannot track rapid changes in pH.
-
pH paper does not resolve pH readings finely enough. It's hard to
tell the difference between pH 9.5, 10.0, and 11.5.
-
pH meters are best used to get accurate readings between pH 8.5 and 10.78,
which is the main range of concern in these methods.
-
pH meters can spot check any reading with a standard buffer solution.
-
a pH meter is more convenient.
Use only a meter that has an automatic temperature-correcting function
up to 100 degrees C.
SAFETY TIPS
Clean your containers so that you'd feel safe drinking out of them.
Boil containers, syringes, siphons and so on before use to sterilize them.
CAUTION!!
Lye can damage the eyes by rendering the cornea opaque, a form of eye
damage that is irreparable. Lye can burn skin, clothes and eyes.
Work near a sink, faucet, or other source of wash water. You might
keep a spray bottle of distilled white vinegar handy to use against spills.
If you spill lye on your clothes or body, immediately wash it off with
lots of water. When working with lye, avoid touching your face or
rubbing your eyes. Do not handle lye around food. Use adequate ventilation
such as a range hood. Do not dump waste water on the ground.
Lye is generally safe to put down the drain, but don't mix it with any
acid that may be in the drain as it can react explosively.
When working with lye, please wear goggles or a full-face visor (an
industrial face protector), neoprene gloves, and a PVC lab apron.
Sources for this safety clothing are in the Appendix
near the end of this document.
Keep children and pets away from the work area, and do not leave it
unattended if children or pets are around.
Glass can shatter with hot liquids. Pour boiling liquid from your
heating container into a stainless steel mixing bowl to cool before pouring
the liquid into a glass container.
THE WET
METHOD
STARTING MATERIALS FOR THE WET METHOD
Some starting materials produce a lot of precipitate, while others do not.
Listed below are materials that have been shown to produce some precipitate
from the WET method:
-
Some municipal drinking water
-
Some hot springs water without sulfur
-
Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water
-
Urine
-
Some lake or river water whose bed or course is limestone.
-
Some well water. Ground water is probably more likely to contain
m-state than surface water (except for sea water).
-
Sea water and sea water reconstituted from certain brands of sea salt,
especially from the Great Salt Lake.
-
Dead Sea water.
-
Certain brands of unrefined sea salt are as good as sea water: Celtic Gray
Sea Salt (from health food stores) and Lima Atlantic Sea Salt (from some
health food stores). Add distilled water and use the WET method.
Filter the scum first.
The WET method performed on ocean or Dead Sea water produces eleven different
m-state elements.
The following materials are ranked in order from most to least m-state
content:
1. Dead Sea water
2. Salt Lake water
3. Ocean water
4. Well water
Listed below are materials that have been found to produce little or
no precipitate from the WET method:
-
Water from some alkali lakes (pH above 8.5).
-
Hot springs with sulfur (because sulfur reduces m-state to metal).
-
Mineral-free lake or river water
-
Dead Sea mineral salts that contain sulfur or sulfates, such as "Sea Mineral
Bath from the Dead Sea" by Dead Sea Works Ltd. for Sea Minerals Co., and
Trace Minerals Research "ConcenTrace Trace Mineral Drops" from the Great
Salt Lake.
For the following methods to work, some researchers claim that magnesium
or magnesium hydroxide -- Mg(OH)2 -- must be present in the starting material.
(Since the Boiling Gold method is effective without any magnesium, this
claim will need to be tested.) Sea water already has Mg(OH)2, so
you don't need to add it to sea water. Try your water first.
If you don't get any precipitate, you might add a teaspoon per gallon of
Epsom salts to the starting material for its magnesium. If you do
add Epsom salts, the magnesium from them will be a large portion of the
precipitate.
WARNING!!
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED
The following problems have been encountered by some folks who have
made m-state for consumption:
-
Some people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state made from sea
water collected at a marina. This water contained high levels of
lead and other contaminants.
-
Other people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state materials which
were made improperly. These materials were made without the use of
pH test paper or meters and the resulting material contained toxic metals.
Please remember that old pH paper can become inaccurate.
-
People have gotten sick from consuming m-state materials which contained
bacteria because they were not sterilized or stored properly.
-
It is possible to bring the pH of your source material up too quickly,
especially if you use lye in too high a concentration. This could
result in local areas of very high pH within your solution. These
high pH areas could allow toxic metals to precipitate and mix with your
desired precipitate.
-
M-state platinum might be considered toxic by some since it makes you quite
ill if you consume alcohol. No one has reported this effect from
consuming m-state from sea water.
-
Some people have used Teflon® coated aluminum sauce pans for heating
lye or lye water. The Teflon® got scratched and the aluminum
started dissolving in the lye water producing hydrogen gas which could
have exploded. The liquid was contaminated with aluminum which is
a poison.
AVOIDING PROBLEMS
-
Use sea water, reconstituted sea water made from sea salt or Dead Sea salt,
or salt lake water. In general, start with a clean and deep source
of water. Some people have gone out to sea in boats to collect sea
water from 100 feet deep.
-
Generally avoid water that has lead, arsenic or other toxic elements in
it. Start with water that is drinkable except for salt content.
-
Conduct an elemental and toxic analysis of questionable starting-material
sources (such as seawater collected close to the shore, or near sources
of industrial waste runoff).
-
Boiling in lye water kills bacteria but it does not destroy toxic metals
or chemicals in your source water.
-
Follow these instructions and slowly change the pH of your solution.
-
Avoid water with sulfur or sulfates in it because such water produces little
or no m-state precipitate.
-
Never use aluminum containers or utensils because
aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and could
poison you.
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